On the tenth day of Christmas…

Last night I finished the very last bits of Master Cormac’s 12th Night gown, with hours to spare, and was able to spend much of the day prewashing fabric and eventually helping him prep for his trip to the East Kingdom. Because I’m cool like that. He has promised me photos of my work in action. There’s still a little to be done on the sleeves, but the embroidery is done (hooray!) and the grey removed from the neckline and hidden from the sleeves. Some of the stretch has been corrected but there’s still a bit, and I’m looking at how much better I can make that when the garment comes home from its vacation. Since it’s all done with French seams, even minor corrections to fit at the shoulders can be a bit of a pain in the ass.

I can’t start in again on Sir Jamal’s coronet, because I still haven’t found more mint wool. I was kind of hoping it might turn up in the deep search of Master Cormac’s vehicle, but such did not occur.

I do however have tonight and tomorrow before 12th Night, and I don’t have a whole lot of work, no classes, and only a few hours of fighting between now and then. I also have a big fat pile of a really pretty black damask which I’ve already started cutting up into a houppelande using a pattern that suggests it’s basically a great big circle with a hole for the head and sleeves inset at the sides. It’s… not going well, and it’s not looking like the source images from period and I’m going to try just a little bit longer and then say screw it and tailor the top because it doesn’t look at all like it ought to. After I figure that out it’ll have great big sleeves with velvet lining, and silk sleeves under that, pinned to the cotehardie I haven’t made yet.

This is a great idea, and I’m sure it’ll go just fine.

Some of my fabrics are more period than others, and I’m patterning from a convincing blog post and a single, uncorroborated period image which seems to not match anything else I’ve found in style. I’m making a bit of an effort to be periodish, but this is definitely not a competition piece, and I’m not sure how it’ll come across at all, so… no claims here. I can document some of what I’m doing but not terribly well, and I’m not fully sure if I’m doing any of it right.

This is a great idea, and I’m sure it’ll go just fine.

Update 2:12pm

I finished the base construction of the houppelande, and it didn’t quite work, but it’s kind of my fault. There’s not enough of it to make a proper circle, and the notch I made at the top is too big. Also, one panel is stitched inside out. Not huge problems. I’m going to add another panel in back to add some volume, which should take care of the circle issue. I fixed the fit by moving the shoulder anchors from the opposite side of the top edge (as suggested) to the outsides of the center panels. I can notch the bits cut off to accommodate sleeves, which will be fine. Right now it’s basically a tapered tunica, which I have mixed feelings about. I think it’ll be pretty, but how period it’ll look remains to be seen. It’ll look better with sleeves.

This is still a pretty good idea, and I’m sure it’ll go just fine.

Update 2:27am
I’ve finished the white cotehardie. It was threatening to be too small and now that it’s done it’s big. I’m confused on the details of that, but whatever. It’s a four-panel design so the skirt isn’t very full but it’s quite long. The lacing goes down to about fingertip level which is lower than it ought to be, but like I said I was afraid it would be tight and thought I’d need extra leeway for fit. The sleeves are just exactly right, the perfect length for an under layer, a good close fit but not restrictive. The shoulders seem to be slipping a little but not too bad. It might just be that it’s a really wide fit and it feels like it’s sliding but it’s not. We’ll see how it does, but if it IS sliding, then adding heavier sleeves to the outside isn’t going to help at all.

The houppelande body is all kind of set up and the neck trimmed into it, but only the first round of stitching is done, and I have to go over each again for the French seams. The neckline is yet to be finished, and the hem isn’t even smoothed out yet. The sleeves are ready to be cut out. I haven’t decided what I’m doing for a belt/sash yet, but I have a couple ideas. I figure I’ll do that last.


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